Plainfield Green Insulation

Plainfield The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as “Open Cell” because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the “open” space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across a spray foam insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam.

Indiana Spf Insulation

Can You Paint Slate Tiles?

Injection Foam Insulation Expanding foam that overexpands and lands where you didn't plan for it -- on hands, clothes, cinderblock or studs -- can pose a removal problem, with the solution depending on the type you use. Polyurethane foams including Dow's Great Stuff, Touch 'n Foam, DAP Kwik Foam and Owens-Corning Insulating Foam Sealant require solvents to clean up while they remain wet, or uncured. DAPtex, a latex foam, expands less and stays flexible as it dries -- and cleans up when uncured with soap and water. Uncured Uncured expanding foam remains wet and can pose a removal problem on skin, carpet or clothing. Polyurethane foam on rigid and soft surfaces: Consult the manufacturer's instructions, which will suggest solvents, such as acetone, paint thinner or nail polish, to remove uncured polyurethane foam. On soft surfaces, such as carpet, test an inconspicuous area first. Polyurethane foam on skin: Wipe off the foam with a paper towel, and rub off the final sticky layer with petroleum jelly or baby oil.  Latex foam: DAPtex can be cleaned off surfaces and skin with soap and water. Cured Expanding foam dries and hardens in 1 to 8 hours, depending on the product. You can sand, trim or scrape cured foam from rigid surfaces. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade for overfill up to about 1 inch thick. Switch to a serrated bread knife for wider overfill. If polyurethane foam dries on your skin, rub off as much as you can with a pumice stone. After a week or so, any remaining dried flecks should work off your skin. Tip To clean the nozzle before putting away the expanding foam, home improvement expert Danny Lipford recommends inserting a spray lubricant straw into the nozzle and spraying lubricant through the nozzle, then cleaning out the nozzle with a wire. Wipe off the outside of the nozzle and the straw before storing them. Alternatively, clean the nozzle with a can of compressed air. A DAPtex nozzle can be cleaned with soap and water and a paper clip or pipe cleaner.

Fireproof Insulation Materials (with Pictures)

Home Depot Spray Foam After long hours of searching you have finally landed in the right place. At last the elusive answers to questions on insulation and spray foam are here awaiting your approval. These aren't the usual newbie FAQ's. These are the 'technical' questions only the really savvy home renovators ask. No more intense bouts of frustration where you suddenly find you're banging your head on the keyboard. The real answers to the advanced questions are here, so say goodbye to impressions of little squares on the forehead. Does spray foam release any Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)? Polyurethane foam is not considered to emit VOC's. However, during application some spray foams release VOC's through the process of discharge from the canister. After curing there should not be any further emissions. To be sure, check with your foam supplier. Can it be used to insulate underground water pipes? Yes! Work closely with the polyurethane manufacturer to determine the best method of application and the most beneficial kind of foam to use. Regional climate changes and projected temperature extremes will be a part of the decision making process. During application, be sure to prepare the trench properly so that no moisture is allowed on or in the foam until it has cured. Should fibreglass insulation be removed before applying it? Yes! Many contractors opt for leaving blown in insulation in an attic and spraying the foam on top. The problem that arises is ventilation and temperature control. More clearly, the temperature of the attic floor will be different than amidst the fibreglass and the temperature amidst the fibreglass will be different than above the spray foam. The job of the spray foam is to balance temperature and humidity with the environment so condensation is prevented. With an inner layer of fibreglass, where air flows, the conditions would be perfect for moisture formation. Does the surface where it will be applied have to be clean? Yes! Any oil or dust on the application surface will prevent the spray foam from adhering. For the typical attic in a wood frame home, a careful vacuuming job covering every nook and cranny will often be adequate. For applications where the surface is steel (or any other metal) it is even more important for the surface to be free of dust and oil. In some cases where the steel is very new, a coat of primer will be required. Many spray foam manufacturers offer a simple rule: if it can be painted, it can be spray foamed. Does an attic need to be vented if spraying foam on the rafters? That depends. If you are applying the spray foam to the roof deck and gable walls, then you want everything under that surface to be a part of the temperature conditioned space. Vents in an attic with insulation above it would be much like have open windows year round - a total waste of money. If you are applying spray foam to just the attic floor, then the conditioned space is below the attic floor. Vents will be necessary for preventing excess humidity. Is weather a factor when applying it? Water is the most important consideration, either as rain or condensation. If there is any moisture present on the application surface, the spray foam will not adhere. Most of the time the problem will be seen right away, and the installer can stop the job until the surface is dry. In the case of applying spray foam to the exterior of roofs and walls during the construction process, wind will be a major factor as well. Overspray carried by wind can not only affect surrounding surfaces, it can mean a loss of yield. Ambient temperature plays a role as well, albeit in extreme conditions. Exceptionally hot temperatures can cause the foam to not hold shape, cause risk to the installer in enclosed hot places and even risk explosion of the tanks holding the polyurethane. Freezing temperatures, such as in northern Alaska, may cause the applicator to cease working altogether. The substrate temperature is a factor as well. For unique situations such as these, it is best to consult with the manufacturer to see how best to proceed.

How to Make a Spray Foam Tree

Foam Panel Insulation So what does it take to make spray foam and what would someone looking to be in the business need to make it happen? Well when it comes to the equipment required to produce the insulation there are four main components: The Machine (aka the proportioner) The Gun The Hose The Pumps Each of these pieces of equipment are crucial to the application of foam insulation. You must each of the following items in order to spray, there are no shortcuts. It is almost important to understand a little bit about what each of these pieces of equipment actually do. The Foam Machine The foam machine is without a doubt the most important part of the entire setup and consequently the most expensive. The purpose of the machine (also called the proportioner) is to heat and proportion the two components of the spray foam chemicals to an exact 1:1 volume and pass that along the heated hose. The Spray Foam Gun The gun is what is connected, via the heated hose to the machine, that takes the chemicals, keep separate until they reach the gun, and mixes them together and sprays them out onto the desired surface. The guns most often operate with approximately 100cfm of supplied air in order to properly spray the chemicals and create a good, even mix of the material. The Heated Hose The hose which is connected between the foam machine and the foam gun, is a two hose design that keeps the material, the A and B component, both separated and heated while it travels the desired length which is typically around 200ft, not to exceed 400ft. The hose is a necessary item because the large foam machine is often mounted into a mobile spray foam rig/trailer and then the hose is pulled into the house or building so the desire area can be sprayed.

 


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