Westridge The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as “Open Cell” because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the “open” space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across a spray foam insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam.
How to Remove Expanding FoamExpanding foam that overexpands and lands where you didn't plan for it -- on hands, clothes, cinderblock or studs -- can pose a removal problem, with the solution depending on the type you use. Polyurethane foams including Dow's Great Stuff, Touch 'n Foam, DAP Kwik Foam and Owens-Corning Insulating Foam Sealant require solvents to clean up while they remain wet, or uncured. DAPtex, a latex foam, expands less and stays flexible as it dries -- and cleans up when uncured with soap and water. Uncured Uncured expanding foam remains wet and can pose a removal problem on skin, carpet or clothing. Polyurethane foam on rigid and soft surfaces: Consult the manufacturer's instructions, which will suggest solvents, such as acetone, paint thinner or nail polish, to remove uncured polyurethane foam. On soft surfaces, such as carpet, test an inconspicuous area first. Polyurethane foam on skin: Wipe off the foam with a paper towel, and rub off the final sticky layer with petroleum jelly or baby oil. Latex foam: DAPtex can be cleaned off surfaces and skin with soap and water. Cured Expanding foam dries and hardens in 1 to 8 hours, depending on the product. You can sand, trim or scrape cured foam from rigid surfaces. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade for overfill up to about 1 inch thick. Switch to a serrated bread knife for wider overfill. If polyurethane foam dries on your skin, rub off as much as you can with a pumice stone. After a week or so, any remaining dried flecks should work off your skin. Tip To clean the nozzle before putting away the expanding foam, home improvement expert Danny Lipford recommends inserting a spray lubricant straw into the nozzle and spraying lubricant through the nozzle, then cleaning out the nozzle with a wire. Wipe off the outside of the nozzle and the straw before storing them. Alternatively, clean the nozzle with a can of compressed air. A DAPtex nozzle can be cleaned with soap and water and a paper clip or pipe cleaner.
Homemade Rat and Mice Spray Repellent (with Pictures)Do you have a sneaking suspicion that the fiberglass insulation in your home or office is falling apart and not doing its job? Do you find bits of pink fluff everywhere? It might be time to ditch your tired old fiberglass insulation and replace it with something that will last. Spray foam is not only more resilient than other kinds of barriers, but it comes with numerous other benefits as well. If you're concerned about the condition of your home or building due to poor insulation, then spray foam can help solve your problems. Spray foam insulation is liquid polyurethane that dries into a tough foam consistency over a surface. Because it's liquid, it can fill in tiny cracks and holes that fiberglass can't protect. The thick, tightly sealed layer it creates is far more energy efficient than any other kind of material. It controls the indoor climate by keeping in more heat and cool air, depending on the weather. This will save you tons of money on electric bills, and be more comfortable for the occupants. Polyurethane insulation also doesn't come with any health risks. Fiberglass is made up of wiry, pink fibers that can make the skin sore and itchy if exposed to it. These fibers come loose and can be inhaled. Breathing in the fibers can cause lesions inside of the mouth and esophagus. Spray foam doesn't have tiny particles that break off and float into the air. It's also harmless to the touch, but is so durable that it does not crumble off anyways. Another benefit of spray polyurethane is that it can make your house or building more hygienic. The thick barrier prevents insects and other pests from sneaking inside. If you've had pest control problems in the past, spray foam insulation can be your new exterminator. Not even moisture stands a chance against its tough exterior. Spray foam keeps water out, which means it also keeps away dangerous mold, which can cost a fortune to repair. If you've been trying everything to get rid of mold, this material is excellent to use in existing homes. Since it can be a messy procedure, and previous insulation will have to be stripped and removed, it is recommended that only professional perform the service. You may be put off by the initial cost of having your home outfitted with a spray foam insulation kit. However, the money and time you will save in the future more than pays for itself. It will even add more value to the home or building, and you won't have to worry about replacing it. The best part about polyurethane is that it is environmentally friendly. If you're trying to make your house or building greener, then spray foam is the way to go. It is made from recyclable and renewable materials, and you'll be saving energy. Its versatility allows it to be sprayed almost anywhere, so you can even insulate the floors and ceilings. Spray foam insulation is a great move to make when you're improving your home or building.
How to Upholster Bar StoolsAfter long hours of searching you have finally landed in the right place. At last the elusive answers to questions on insulation and spray foam are here awaiting your approval. These aren't the usual newbie FAQ's. These are the 'technical' questions only the really savvy home renovators ask. No more intense bouts of frustration where you suddenly find you're banging your head on the keyboard. The real answers to the advanced questions are here, so say goodbye to impressions of little squares on the forehead. Does spray foam release any Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)? Polyurethane foam is not considered to emit VOC's. However, during application some spray foams release VOC's through the process of discharge from the canister. After curing there should not be any further emissions. To be sure, check with your foam supplier. Can it be used to insulate underground water pipes? Yes! Work closely with the polyurethane manufacturer to determine the best method of application and the most beneficial kind of foam to use. Regional climate changes and projected temperature extremes will be a part of the decision making process. During application, be sure to prepare the trench properly so that no moisture is allowed on or in the foam until it has cured. Should fibreglass insulation be removed before applying it? Yes! Many contractors opt for leaving blown in insulation in an attic and spraying the foam on top. The problem that arises is ventilation and temperature control. More clearly, the temperature of the attic floor will be different than amidst the fibreglass and the temperature amidst the fibreglass will be different than above the spray foam. The job of the spray foam is to balance temperature and humidity with the environment so condensation is prevented. With an inner layer of fibreglass, where air flows, the conditions would be perfect for moisture formation. Does the surface where it will be applied have to be clean? Yes! Any oil or dust on the application surface will prevent the spray foam from adhering. For the typical attic in a wood frame home, a careful vacuuming job covering every nook and cranny will often be adequate. For applications where the surface is steel (or any other metal) it is even more important for the surface to be free of dust and oil. In some cases where the steel is very new, a coat of primer will be required. Many spray foam manufacturers offer a simple rule: if it can be painted, it can be spray foamed. Does an attic need to be vented if spraying foam on the rafters? That depends. If you are applying the spray foam to the roof deck and gable walls, then you want everything under that surface to be a part of the temperature conditioned space. Vents in an attic with insulation above it would be much like have open windows year round - a total waste of money. If you are applying spray foam to just the attic floor, then the conditioned space is below the attic floor. Vents will be necessary for preventing excess humidity. Is weather a factor when applying it? Water is the most important consideration, either as rain or condensation. If there is any moisture present on the application surface, the spray foam will not adhere. Most of the time the problem will be seen right away, and the installer can stop the job until the surface is dry. In the case of applying spray foam to the exterior of roofs and walls during the construction process, wind will be a major factor as well. Overspray carried by wind can not only affect surrounding surfaces, it can mean a loss of yield. Ambient temperature plays a role as well, albeit in extreme conditions. Exceptionally hot temperatures can cause the foam to not hold shape, cause risk to the installer in enclosed hot places and even risk explosion of the tanks holding the polyurethane. Freezing temperatures, such as in northern Alaska, may cause the applicator to cease working altogether. The substrate temperature is a factor as well. For unique situations such as these, it is best to consult with the manufacturer to see how best to proceed.