Westridge The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as “Open Cell” because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the “open” space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across a spray foam insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam.
How to Remove Foam Sealant From My FingersOne of the most important keys to reducing your heating and cooling costs is having your home well-insulated. So what is the best insulation for your home? Spray Foam Foam insulation has two forms: Open and closed cell. Both are made from a polyurethane material and have different propellant agents added. Some are made from biodegradable materials, such as soybeans, to make the off-gases friendlier to the environment. Foam is probably the best insulation for blocking air infiltration combined with high R-value. Installed by a professional, the price of spray foam varies depending on the thickness of the walls and type of foam. Spray foam insulation is probably the best overall insulation on the market if you can afford the cost. Foam insulation lowers your heating and your cooling loads when installed correctly. Additional benefits are elimination of air infiltration, keeps out dust, mold and allergens, and does not sag or deteriorate. Open cell foam is used more in residential applications. It is less expensive to install and is easier to work with after it's in place. Open cell allows water to penetrate, so it makes an excellent roof deck insulator. If water is allowed to penetrate, you can locate roof leaks before the decking deteriorates. Biggest benefit of open cell is heat transfer in sunny locations. It takes approximately 36 hours of sun to penetrate through 8 inches of foam. This is also true for walls. So when the home is cooled, it will stay cool. The warranty of the roof material is not voided with the installation of spray foam insulation. Closed cell foam has a much more structural component to it and can support some weight without compression. Closed cell does not allow water to penetrate and is an excellent insulator for basement and crawl walls where water could be a problem. Closed cell foam has a higher R-value per inch but is very ridged and tough to work with after installation. It is most often used in commercial applications. However, it has its useful applications in homes. Foam insulation keeps mold out of walls. Mold occurs in walls with batt insulation because of "thermal loop effect". This is where the heat penetrates the exterior wall, coming in contact with the cooler interior surface of the drywall, causing moisture to form. Moisture above 25% can provide an environment for mold to grow. Spray foam blocks this heat transfer and has no air gaps in which moisture can form. One way to combat the higher cost of spray foam is to combine a couple of inches of closed cell foam with fiberglass batt insulation installed over the foam, getting the exceptional air-blocking value of foam, with the high R-value and lower cost of fiberglass insulation. Spray foam insulation costs more than fiberglass batts, but it also has approximately twice the R-value of typical fiberglass batts insulation. By combining the two you will get the best of both. Foam insulation is also particularly good for remodeling projects when there is only easy access to the basement or crawl space and the attic. By blocking the air flow from the top (attic) and bottom (crawl or basement) you stop the draftiness that some older homes have, thus making the home more comfortable. A more comfortable home is what we all are looking to achieve. Spray foam can give you warmth in the winter and cooling in the summer when combined with the appropriate HVAC system. These systems can be smaller in size when your home is better insulated with less air infiltration.
How to Remove Expanding FoamPolyurethane foam (PUR foam) had been widely used in most household and building installations. There are two types of polyurethane depending on how it is applied, the rigid form and the spray foam. Spray foam application is usually cheaper though less effective. Polyurethane foam is an insulation material with high thermal resistance because of the low-conductivity gas present. It is available in liquid formed but is applied using a spray equipment. HCFC or hydro chlorofluorocarbons are the usual gas used with an R-value range of R-7 to R-8 per inch. This R-value deteriorates in time through the process called thermal drift. As the low conductivity gas escapes through the air, gas molecules present in air replaces the gases in the insulation. This phenomenon usually starts after 2 years of installation. While the rigid board structure is more effective in insulating, application of spray polyurethane foam insulation relatively is easy since it molds to the form of the surface. Because of that it is also called, foamed-in-application. Most of the spray foam produce today has non-CFC (non-chlorofluorocarbon) gas as their foaming agent. While these non-CFC foams are less effective in insulation, they pose less threat to the ozone layer. It is also effective in a relative large range of temperature. An R-value of R-6 to R-6.5 per inch is normal for high density closed-cell PUR foam, about 32 kilograms per cubic meter (kg/m3). Low density open-cell PUR foam has about 8 kilogram per cubic meter (kg/m3). This has been noted to be more flexible than the regular polyurethane foams. Carbon dioxide as also been used as a forming agent for some low density foams. Spraying the polyurethane foam requires specific equipment and personnel using them must be properly trained. High density foams have usually slow-expanding capabilities. Low density foams expand rapidly when applied to walls' cavity sealing them almost instantly. However may cause over-expansion in the walls' surfaces creating damage. Using spray polyurethane foams in home insulation benefits the owner in many ways. Non-CFC foams are eco-friendly have no formaldehydes that may damage the ozone layer in the atmosphere. It can greatly eliminate air or wind infiltration the household. Air seeping through cracks or opening in the walls or roofing can increase convective air currents in attics or walls and also increase moisture and condensation rate inside the household. Since it is a very effective insulation, less energy can be used in terms of cooling and heating the household, while maintain the preferred comfort zone inside the house. It also passively strengthens the walls they are applied to. It has also long life span of more than 10 years which can be extended further by recoating. Installing or using spray polyurethane foam insulation, however must depend and customize to fit the home's building lay-out, cost of effectiveness, and even the climate wherein the home stands. While these considerations can be easily dealt with especially for someone with high budget, application of spray foam polyurethane, for best results must be left at the hands of experts.
Fireproof Insulation Materials (with Pictures)After long hours of searching you have finally landed in the right place. At last the elusive answers to questions on insulation and spray foam are here awaiting your approval. These aren't the usual newbie FAQ's. These are the 'technical' questions only the really savvy home renovators ask. No more intense bouts of frustration where you suddenly find you're banging your head on the keyboard. The real answers to the advanced questions are here, so say goodbye to impressions of little squares on the forehead. Does spray foam release any Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)? Polyurethane foam is not considered to emit VOC's. However, during application some spray foams release VOC's through the process of discharge from the canister. After curing there should not be any further emissions. To be sure, check with your foam supplier. Can it be used to insulate underground water pipes? Yes! Work closely with the polyurethane manufacturer to determine the best method of application and the most beneficial kind of foam to use. Regional climate changes and projected temperature extremes will be a part of the decision making process. During application, be sure to prepare the trench properly so that no moisture is allowed on or in the foam until it has cured. Should fibreglass insulation be removed before applying it? Yes! Many contractors opt for leaving blown in insulation in an attic and spraying the foam on top. The problem that arises is ventilation and temperature control. More clearly, the temperature of the attic floor will be different than amidst the fibreglass and the temperature amidst the fibreglass will be different than above the spray foam. The job of the spray foam is to balance temperature and humidity with the environment so condensation is prevented. With an inner layer of fibreglass, where air flows, the conditions would be perfect for moisture formation. Does the surface where it will be applied have to be clean? Yes! Any oil or dust on the application surface will prevent the spray foam from adhering. For the typical attic in a wood frame home, a careful vacuuming job covering every nook and cranny will often be adequate. For applications where the surface is steel (or any other metal) it is even more important for the surface to be free of dust and oil. In some cases where the steel is very new, a coat of primer will be required. Many spray foam manufacturers offer a simple rule: if it can be painted, it can be spray foamed. Does an attic need to be vented if spraying foam on the rafters? That depends. If you are applying the spray foam to the roof deck and gable walls, then you want everything under that surface to be a part of the temperature conditioned space. Vents in an attic with insulation above it would be much like have open windows year round - a total waste of money. If you are applying spray foam to just the attic floor, then the conditioned space is below the attic floor. Vents will be necessary for preventing excess humidity. Is weather a factor when applying it? Water is the most important consideration, either as rain or condensation. If there is any moisture present on the application surface, the spray foam will not adhere. Most of the time the problem will be seen right away, and the installer can stop the job until the surface is dry. In the case of applying spray foam to the exterior of roofs and walls during the construction process, wind will be a major factor as well. Overspray carried by wind can not only affect surrounding surfaces, it can mean a loss of yield. Ambient temperature plays a role as well, albeit in extreme conditions. Exceptionally hot temperatures can cause the foam to not hold shape, cause risk to the installer in enclosed hot places and even risk explosion of the tanks holding the polyurethane. Freezing temperatures, such as in northern Alaska, may cause the applicator to cease working altogether. The substrate temperature is a factor as well. For unique situations such as these, it is best to consult with the manufacturer to see how best to proceed.