Fortville The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as “Open Cell” because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the “open” space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across a spray foam insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam.
How to Paint RopeOne of the most important keys to reducing your heating and cooling costs is having your home well-insulated. So what is the best insulation for your home? Spray Foam Foam insulation has two forms: Open and closed cell. Both are made from a polyurethane material and have different propellant agents added. Some are made from biodegradable materials, such as soybeans, to make the off-gases friendlier to the environment. Foam is probably the best insulation for blocking air infiltration combined with high R-value. Installed by a professional, the price of spray foam varies depending on the thickness of the walls and type of foam. Spray foam insulation is probably the best overall insulation on the market if you can afford the cost. Foam insulation lowers your heating and your cooling loads when installed correctly. Additional benefits are elimination of air infiltration, keeps out dust, mold and allergens, and does not sag or deteriorate. Open cell foam is used more in residential applications. It is less expensive to install and is easier to work with after it's in place. Open cell allows water to penetrate, so it makes an excellent roof deck insulator. If water is allowed to penetrate, you can locate roof leaks before the decking deteriorates. Biggest benefit of open cell is heat transfer in sunny locations. It takes approximately 36 hours of sun to penetrate through 8 inches of foam. This is also true for walls. So when the home is cooled, it will stay cool. The warranty of the roof material is not voided with the installation of spray foam insulation. Closed cell foam has a much more structural component to it and can support some weight without compression. Closed cell does not allow water to penetrate and is an excellent insulator for basement and crawl walls where water could be a problem. Closed cell foam has a higher R-value per inch but is very ridged and tough to work with after installation. It is most often used in commercial applications. However, it has its useful applications in homes. Foam insulation keeps mold out of walls. Mold occurs in walls with batt insulation because of "thermal loop effect". This is where the heat penetrates the exterior wall, coming in contact with the cooler interior surface of the drywall, causing moisture to form. Moisture above 25% can provide an environment for mold to grow. Spray foam blocks this heat transfer and has no air gaps in which moisture can form. One way to combat the higher cost of spray foam is to combine a couple of inches of closed cell foam with fiberglass batt insulation installed over the foam, getting the exceptional air-blocking value of foam, with the high R-value and lower cost of fiberglass insulation. Spray foam insulation costs more than fiberglass batts, but it also has approximately twice the R-value of typical fiberglass batts insulation. By combining the two you will get the best of both. Foam insulation is also particularly good for remodeling projects when there is only easy access to the basement or crawl space and the attic. By blocking the air flow from the top (attic) and bottom (crawl or basement) you stop the draftiness that some older homes have, thus making the home more comfortable. A more comfortable home is what we all are looking to achieve. Spray foam can give you warmth in the winter and cooling in the summer when combined with the appropriate HVAC system. These systems can be smaller in size when your home is better insulated with less air infiltration.
How to Remove Spray Foam InsulationNow contemplate the recreational elements of the home, such as pools, spas, boats, recreational vehicles and trailers. Reducing the costs of heating your pool water by up to half will be easy if the underlying cavity and sides are insulated with polyurethane foam. Campers and trailers are rarely insulated beyond a cursory overlay, resulting in diminished use during the spring and autumn months. Why not extend your annual use of recreational vehicles by adding a layer of spray foam insulation? Plus, don't forget the spray foam will also help deaden noise from the road. Pleasure boats, dinghies, even yachts can benefit from polyurethane foam. Aside from the insulating qualities, there is added buoyancy. For small vessels like row boats and the kid's summer dinghy, that could be a great added safety benefit. In new construction and large renovations there is often a need to fill voids for adding to the structural integrity, sealing up air pockets, smoothing out uneven cavities and insulating HVAC components. Polyurethane foam is the perfect solution for all those needs. It gets into those little spaces and expands until there is nowhere else to go. Even buildings formerly used for storage can be spray foam insulated and converted to residential use. Or how about converting an old van or bus into a recreational vehicle? Insulate it with spray foam and you have a quiet, warm place to sleep while on that summer road trip. We know one of the qualities of polyurethane foam is the ability to repel moisture, and in turn prevent mildew and mold. In the event of a water problem such as a residential flood or hurricane damage, spray foam will provide a temporary dyke while a more concrete solution can be arranged. Now let's take that ability to resist liquid one step further, to hazardous materials. Polyurethane foam also resists oil and petrochemicals, which mean it can be used as a temporary hazmat spill containment solution.
How to Fix Holes in Tree TrunksSo, you have chosen to kick out the pink stuff and insulate your home using polyurethane foam insulation instead. Congratulations! You're on your way to reaping the benefits of more energy savings, less mold, fewer air leaks, greener materials, and twice the protective capability when compared to traditional fiberglass and cellulose insulation. But you won't see these advantages if you do not apply spray foam insulation properly - and that begins before you start spraying. Before you even think about moving forward, you should be thinking about safety. Protective safety goggles, full-cover clothing, a mask, and work gloves are a must for anyone applying expanding foam insulation. Make absolutely sure that no skin is exposed during application, because the adhesiveness of spray foam is similar to that of permanent glue: it will stick to skin and will not come off. If this occurs, the insulation will remain on your skin until your outer epidermal layer peels off. For the record, the only substances known to remove expanding foam are white spirit-based solvents - and only then if the insulation has not begun to set. Applying polyurethane foam insulation also opens the possibility of the material getting into your lungs, which can cause respiratory problems. In short, get confident in your ability to apply spray foam properly. Once you are ready to proceed, make sure the area where the spray foam is to be applied is between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is not, either wait for the temperatures to decrease or warm the area using a bullet heater. Also, make sure the application area is clear of debris and dust in order to maximize adhesion. If there are holes or cracks in the walls or ceiling areas where you are spraying, make sure that you apply a sealant to insure a suitable air seal. Once the area to be sprayed is ready, you must turn your attention to the areas that will not be sprayed. Windows, doors, floors, drywall, and other areas must be masked with cloth or plastic sheeting so they won't be affected by over spraying. If there are any objects or structures that cannot be removed before spraying (such as air conditioners, plumbing piping, or heating units), then make sure they are completely covered as well. Again, one gap in your protective sheeting could result in a spot or stain which you may be unable to remove.